Saturday, January 2, 2010

Rio de Janeiro

I thought I should take a minute to talk a little more about this place.  It’s interesting how the longer you spend somewhere, the more you peal back the layers and learn.  More and different sides reveal themselves when you least expect it.  Before I get into details an tangents, though, I'll tell you more about the city in general.

First and foremost, it's important to know that Rio is broke down into sections.  The city itself is very large, now the second largest in Brazil, but the capital moved from Rio to Brasilia in 1822, so it is now mostly famous for its landmarks, natural settings and, of course, carnival.

Ipanema

Of the different sections of town, you may already be familiar with Ipanema because of the Girl from Ipanema (samba) song - and the author of the song is actually from the street next to where I'm staying! - but it is actually a real area, the girl from the song is real and I've gotta say the area definitely has it's charm.  

A small inlet divides Ipanema from Copacabana, another famous beach, which is larger but also rumored to be more dangerous and touristy from most people I've talked to.  

Ipanema is clean, safe and simple (although the shops do seem more upscale, etc), but I have also noticed a lot of poverty.  There are homeless people on many corners, for example, but just as many police because of the tourists.  It feels safe, but it's also a little strange to have a social divide.  

I wouldn't call Ipanema a tourist grotto like Thamel in Kathmandu, but I think a lot of Westerners stick to this side of town if alone or at night.  When I told the British girl I'm rooming with I was leaving Ipanema to go to Santa Theresa alone about three hours before sunset (so there was a CHANCE of being there alone in the dark), she was shocked and told me I was crazy.  Needless to say, even though there was that little incident with the guy screaming at me in Lapa (at a lit busstop, on the way home), the area wasn't even remotely dangerous compared to some of the "bad" parts of town and the favellas.

The Rio locals, or cariocas, I have met have also been very kind and - even though I have been very cognizant of my surroundings - I have generally felt safe; again, even traveling alone.

Rio

As for the wider city itself, Rio is a city of over 10 million people squeezed between the ocean and the mountains. Locals love Rio calling it cidade maravilhosa (marvelous city) and refer to themselves as caricas for being part of what is undoubtedly one of the world's most beautiful city setting.  I can attest to the fact that they're not wrong.  

Rio’s post card is the symbol of Brazil. Corcovado, the Christ Redeemer and the Sugar-Loaf Hill, a cablecar/hiking trip with a wicked view of the entire city, are the most famous sites. The tourism spots are numerous (I could go on...), but I should also mention Maracanã Stadium, the soccer temple that I visited earlier and where the World Cup will be held, as well as Passarela do Samba (Samba Catwalk), almost like a block-long concrete stadium where the Rio samba-schools parade during the city's biggest event, Carnival in February.

Sao Paulo is supposed to be more more "international" (they have more immigrants), but I can understand why Rio de Janeiro considers itself the art and cultural center of the continent. Away from the beaches and intense night life you will find much art by contemporary artists in galleries and museums, excellent shopping (particularly for jewelry, theaters, clubbing, sport events) and a huge variety of restaurants.  

Everyone Should Come Once

In short, there are some cities that take a while to grow on you. Some you never really find affection for.  And others that capture your heart with just a taste.  This city falls into the last category.  Each day is better than the last... and I am absolutely head over heels in love with the place.

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