Thursday, December 31, 2009
Happy New Years!
Im now staying with Pria, who I met on couchsurfing, rooming with her and grandma, who is visiting from the Amazon (but the whole family is here in the Tijuca apartment). The first night we ran errands and had dinner, yesterday we explored downtown and today the manicure lady (a friend of the fam) came over to beautify the ladies for the big New Years Eve party at church tonight. I convinced Pria to come to Copacabana Beach (2-3 million people in white and fireworks galore), so Im heading down with three Brazilian girls and maybe meeting some hostel friends there later.
So much for the bikini bod, though. The fam has been feeding me the most amazing Brazilian food (fresh acerola juice for breakfast today), teaching me a LOT about *real* life here (although Pria is the only one who speaks English and Im - somehow - now quite fluent in Portuguese yet) and theyre just so sweet.
Ill have more to share when I get better access (tomorrow is my last night in Rio and then off to Sao Paolo to meet the CLV peeps), but until then, I wish you all a marvelous New Years!
Much love from a rainy Rio, b
Sunday, December 27, 2009
Football ahoy
Had sort of a panicky moment this afternoon when my ATM card was rejected at THREE different banks. I finally got it to work at citibank, but theres a big fee for using the atms. at least i can get money... and know where to go. Ironically, I met two guys from Newton, MA (blocks from where I live) at the last bum bank local that told me about the citibank trick. Small world!
The hippy fair was pretty awesome, too. Not so much hippy stuff, as I expected, but just an open-air market with art, crafts, jewelry, fakes, etc. I found a really great feather headband and some cheap, stone pendants for the girls I work with and friends at home, but i didnt have time to go back and get them with the cash fiasco. Ill go bac k if its open tonight.
Anyways, gonna go fill up on water before we head out, but lovely day in the city. Cant wait for the game... Ill let you know if I make the big screen (cheering for Brazil, naturally) ; )
Osimperdiveis (the world's first twin cousins)
Brazilians
Soccer Sunday
Today I had brunch at one of the many corner sandwich/juice places. Last night it was an egg, cheese and ham (fried) sandwich. Today I had bananas and cheese on wheat with a raspberry juice. So cheap. So delicious. Bliss.
We’ve had rainy forecasts pretty much everyday, but it’s remained nice, so I might take advantage of the weather and head to the beach again for a bit. I need to submit my applications for next year soon, too (still waiting on a recommendation from my grad school prof), so my couchsurfing friend recommended I check out the libraries here. They’re air-conditioned and are supposed to be really nice (not to mention being better motivation to work than the beach). If it's not raining tomorrow, I'll probably check out the Sugarloaf mountain and visit the library.
As for today, though, just booked something exciting - a soccer game! I need to get going if I want any time to do other stuff before the game (and need to find an ATM), but definitely looking forward to this game, the last for several months with some kind of a celebrity match to boot!
Fairytale
I’m writing this from my hostel room balcony, which overlooks a narrow alleyway, lined with apartments and hostels (including the entrance to where I’m staying). The warm summer weather whispers tales of a wispy summer night, but one would never know we were located in the middle of one of the most popular areas of a major global city; the 10pm noise curfew means the parties, guests and neighbors have retreated inside and the only noises are the soft, swift sounds of the fans overhead and an occasional car honking in the distance. A bird chippers intermittently. There is a gate at the entrance of this little outlet, big and black, twisted wrought iron, now locked for the night. I have a key, but I won’t use it tonight.
Although it’s not more than 50 meters long, the alleyway is lined with large, potted plants; small, gentle trees with blooming dark pink flowers grace the cemented pathway that leads to stoops and colorful doorways. The door to my powder-colored house is red.
The image conjures up a very distinct and vivid memory of a moment in time when I was 19, walking along a narrow street in Crete with my good friend Joe and two comrades we had met on the boat from Athens. Soft pedals fell through the air, past vine-covered walls and similar narrow apartments, as we savored the sounds of church bells ringing in the distance. Mathias, the Polish guy, makes a comment about how that very moment, a stance in time, was his perfect, his ideal. If he could be anywhere, he would wish to be in that scenic, elegant street exactly as it was at that moment. It was like something out of a movie.
And sitting here now, I am reminded of Mathias and that experience. Again, the overwhelming charm and solitude of the moment feels like a movie. And I am blessed in some way to be the lucky girl with return tickets to this magical theater.
Ringing In Rio the Way It’s Meant to Be Done
Much has happened since I last wrote. I’m going to break it down and this might be a long one, but I should just start by saying I am having the most amazing time. This trip is like a fairytale!
Starting where I left off, after resting for a few hours yesterday, I hung out in the hostel lobby (something out of an Amelie set) to relax, get my bearings and to email my parents to let them know, well, I made it alive.
As I was doing my internet stuff, the guy sitting at the computer next to me struck up a conversation. It turned out he was also in grad school (MBA) and visiting from Miami with his brother, on break from med school. We chatted for a while and when we had both finished with our respective emailing, I joined Ari (the new friend) on a little adventure to find this synagogue he wanted to go to later on and to check out the scene at beach (Ipanema, a few blocks down). When Ari had to get back to meet his brother, I chose to stay at the beach for sunset (totally stunning) and made plans to meet up with the guys later on since we were all heading to the Friday-night street party in Lapa. I had also made plans to rendezvous with people I met on the couchsurfing site, so it seemed like a good plan to meet for drinks and split a cab.
Christmas Mass
After catching the sunset, I spent several hours wandering around the streets of Ipanema, grabbing dinner (a franfile at Bob’s; took me a while to figure out that once you pay in one line, you get in another line to submit your paid order to get your sandwich) and doing some window-shopping, (definitely an upscale area, but everything was closed for the holiday). As I was getting close to the hostel, I ran across an absolutely gorgeous church and noticed I was right on-time for the evening Christmas mass! I joined the crowds and found a seat inside.
The Church was Catholic and Christmas mass was completely in Portuguese, but I sang about half of the carols (quietly) in English and tried about half of them in Portuguese (which I am sure other people found funny if they heard me). It really wasn’t hard to know what was going on (it is a ritual, after all, right?) and even though I have zero experience with Portuguese, it sort of felt like cheating to be able to somewhat read where we were in the program since the language is written with the roman alphabet (something I appreciate after being in Japan and struggling with the Chinese characters for so long).
To be honest, this Christmas was feeling a little weird, primarily because it’s a) warm, b) being spent far away from family and friends and c) sort of uneventful (in terms of actually celebrating the holiday). It’s true that this is my fourth Christmas in a row outside of Minnesota (or even the country), but it’s still a little sad to be so far away from loved ones at a time when most people celebrate being together, and I think being able to attend mass (something traditional and important to this day) made up for a lot of those feelings.
Once mass ended, I opted to just head back toward the hostel to get ready to go out, but there were a lot of people out in the streets and many of the parks I passed were decked with blue and white Christmas lights and Christmas signs. One bank even had carolers standing outside, belting out songs for the crowds. Awesome vibe.
La-La-LAPA
After getting ready, I met the Miami boys at the bar on the corner and the three of us cabbed over to Lapa, passing through Copacabana and other areas of town on the way. I ended up missing the couchsurfing crew, but we ran into a French girl Ari had met, and hung out with her and a group of fellow travelers (from all over) for a few beers at one of the open-air bars (best service I’ve seen in a while and it was $7 for the three of us to drink for an hour!). Lapa is not supposed to be the safest area (they tell you not to wear any jewelry here, for one thing), but I felt totally at ease with my two new friends around and had a grand time wandering the streets and going from bar to bar. I also discovered my new favorite drink… the Brazilian capriana: loaded with sugar, lots of lime slices, and it packs a strong punch (but I'm a fan).
The whole Lapa event was less of a street party than I would have expected, with most of the action coming from the pumping-clubs (playing samba) or open-air bars, but I think Christmas probably had a lot to do with it. It was a very pretty area, though; what I imagine Cuba to be like. There’s a large, white aqueduct splitting this section of town into two areas, with a lot of old, low buildings, many of them with paintings and graffiti on the side. In contrast to the large, shiny office buildings peaking over the roofs from a few blocks down (the business district??), it definitely took on a lot of old-world charm.
House Party
I have no idea what time we left Lapa (it had to have been late considering the Lapa party didn't really get going until 12), but after a while, the guys got ahold of a Brazilian friend (-of-a-friend) on their cell and we hopped another cab to meet them at a house party. I still have no idea where we were, but this was by far the coolest house party I’ve ever been to; definitely what they are meant to be. There was a bouncer at the gate of the mansion, but our names had been added to the list, so we went in to meet the friend (a really sweet Brazilian girl, prob about 20) and her friends. The backyard was sprinkled in palm trees and they had put up a bar in front of the house. Most people were dressed up. It was formal in a sense, but totally laid back. Loved it.
Needless to say, I didn’t make it home until the morning, but I had such a great night chatting with new friends and sipping sweet drinks under the stars - a wondrous welcome to this place, which gets a bad international rap for being dangerous, but which I would (based on my first day) argue to be made up of so many kind, passionate and lovely people.
Saturday
Once I did make it back, I accidentally fell asleep in the bed across from mine at the hostel (no sheets and I was very confused when I woke up), but once I was up, I decided to take it easy for a while and just relax and do some studying/reading at the beach. I packed just what I needed in a day bag, layered on the SPF50, and found a nice little spot between the yellow umbrellas and towels covering the white sand on Ipanema. The reading only lasted for about 20 minutes, as I was kept having to wipe my eyes because I was sweating so much from the sun, but it was still nice to just enjoy the weather and lay out for a while.
Santa Theresa
As I mentioned in the first few posts, I had secured an amazing deal staying with a woman in Santa Theresa, which almost seemed too amazing to be true. I've been emailing with a girl from couchsurfing for a few days and decided to cancel my reservation to stay with her family, but I still needed to find the ST place to deliver the vitamins I picked up for Solange (the woman I've been emailing with, who asked me to get them). I was still skeptical when I took the bus over to her area of town, but when I got off the bus in Lapa to walk up and first saw the area, I swear I literally gasped in awe. I’ve heard Santa Theresa is beautiful, but I wasn’t prepared for how beautiful the stone-clad streets would be. Very nice, seemingly safe and amazing ambiance. Along the way, I had some trouble finding a street, so I stopped to ask a family sitting outside where to go. They insisted I didn’t walk alone (typically of older women being protective) and hailed down a van/bus to stop and let me in, telling them where to take me. We passed a few pairs of policemen on horses, but otherwise, the streets were somewhat lit and the area didn't seem bad, but it was probably good to play it safe.
In the end, Solange and the house turned out to be very real and I was again blown away by the homestay location, which turned out to be a sprawling Spanish-style mansion on the mountain, with a marble swimming pool overlooking all of the city. I almost got emotional seeing the Jesus statue, shrouded in clouds amidst the sunset – one of the most beautiful scenes I’ve encountered in a while – as Solange was giving me a tour. Even though I told Solange I wasn’t going to stay, she and I really clicked and I spent a while hanging out at her house and chatting with her family. They made me stay for a drink while and tried to make me stay for dinner, while we chatted about school (her daughter is 25 and a law student, the other two were playing in the pool) and other things. In the end, though, it was getting late and I needed to get back to the other side of town, but if I ever come back to Rio, I would love to stay in this place! I already feel like the family is my host family here after less than an hour talking. But sometimes you just know...
Saturday Samba
So of course, even though I was tired, I didn’t exactly make it home straught away. As I was walking back to the bus, I passed a vintage clothing store and popped in to look around. I’m trying to be good and not buy much (because I already have too much stuff and I can’t carry that much now anyways), but - again, of course, I found the perfect white dress for New Years and it was a steal, so I had to get that (ok, and a black bag that I think will be good for toting books or whatever back in Boston). As I was about to leave the shop, again attempting to just head home, I was drawn instead in the opposite direction, up on a hill towards the sounds of loud music coming from a community dance hall. I could hear the music from the shop asked the girl working there what was going on and she told me (in the usual communication dance/ charades) that it was a samba party and it was OK to go. So that’s how I ended up at one of the Saturday samba parties…
When I made it up the stone steps, the scene unfolded and I saw the source of the music: a samba band sitting around a table in the middle of this open pavilion, playing enthusiastically as a packed crowd danced and sang along. Some people had also brought little picnics and were standing at the tables around the outside. I bought a beer from the bar (a bunch of kids with coolers in the corner of the room) and joined in on the dancing for a while, watching as people of all ages danced together around me. My friend wasn’t kidding about all the pretty people in Santa Theresa, even though most at the party were older than college-age - it was electric.
I stayed for a while, but once I finally left, I did finally make it down towards home again, going back to Lapa by bus, passing an old-fashioned theater (like Amalie or the theater in Inglorious Basterds).
Waiting for the Bus
I think I almost got mugged as I was standing at a stop, waiting for my next bus, but a Brazilian guy stepped in and saved/defended me, apologizing for the guy who had screamed at me in Portuguese (tried to whisper something in my ear and backed me into a stone wall… so not cool).
I was also pretty proud when I figured out what bus to take, how to pay when you get in (sort of a little gate system where you pay an attendant and he lets you through) and recognized some of the sights near where I am staying (about 30 minutes from Lapa), so I knew when/where to get off.
When I got off, I asked this old man eating a sandwich that looked amazing where to get food and he brought me to the restaurant he had gone to and helped me order the same thing. Delightful guy - turns out he had lived in New York for a while. Even better sandwich.
Back at the hostel, there was a big group hanging out in one of the hostel lobbies (because of the noise curfew outside), but I just hung out with some of the people I had met for a little bit (a girl from England, the Norwegians, a British guy working at the hostel and a Brazilian guy) before calling it an earlier night.
And so here I am...
Sitting on the balcony and trying to catch up. Enjoying the summer weather. My roommate is sleeping and I think I’m also going to head to bed, but what an awesome beginning to this trip. It feels like I’ve been here for much longer than a day… I think I am falling in love with this city!
Saturday, December 26, 2009
Landed
Hello from Rio! It’s hot, sticky and from what I can tell so far, a spectacular place.
Why do I feel like I'm always going somewhere? (On the way down... )
The trip down (literally) took half a day, but made it without too much trouble. Only had one minor false alarm because of the short (30 minute) layover in Atlanta. I had to hustle, but made the connection alright, but had a little scare that my luggage didn't when my suitcase came out long after everyone else had gotten theirs once we had arrived (and was buried under staff checklists). I spent some time chatting with the airport staff as I was waiting, though, who were very nice and gave me some good tips for the city.
Welcome to Rio
So my first impressions of the city came before I had really even reached it... on the bus-ride in.
The highlight of the trip was definitely passing several lots housing the massive Carnival floats as well as the favellas, or poor areas of the city. Even though I'm normally not a big fan of the type of travel where you "experience" places through glass, I was absolutely in heaven just drinking in the scenery and people watching from my seat. The architecture in the area around the domestic airport was beautiful, for example, but it also raised a lot of questions for me about Rio's history, as the area was visibly only an echo of what it must have once been and represented. Will have to do some more reading on this one, but there were basically a lot of old, European-looking buildings, many of them with dirty or damaged facades and huge pieces of the buildings missing (it makes you wonder what will become of all the big, shiny glass buildings closer to Ipanema and Copacabana in a hundred years or two).
After passing the favellas, the sharp contrast with the nicer areas definitely hit me and I know there is a lot to learn about the people and culture here, as well. The city is surprisingly green, surrounded by mountains, with large, blunt peaks providing a beautiful backdrop. Many of them are blanketed with an air of affluence, too (as the large, colorful houses packed closely together would suggest).
I also saw the famed Jesus statue for the first time on the ride in, but in all honesty, it was much less of the presence I expected it to be. In fact, I first thought it was a just another radio tower (as the other peaks in the area have large, looming towers that almost trump the Jesus)... but maybe the view is different from the center of the city.
As for walking around, I’ve only seen a few streets in Ipanema, but I’ll explore soon. The cobblestone and busy foot traffic strike me as charming, though. And I don't think I've encountered such an overwhelming population of swimsuit-clad commoners in other cities I've been to. Nothing extremely skimpy, as I would have expected, but the old men walking around in speedos (or “d***stickers” as a Norwegian guy I met called them), flip flops and t-shirts are pretty funny.
The Locals
Much like with Italy, I also have to admit I am having some trouble figuring out who the typical Brazilian is supposed to be. Sure, Pelle and Giselle look different, but one of the first observations I’ve made about the people here is that Brazilians definitely take on a lot of different looks. I haven't been here long and have yet to hit up the big touristy sites, but - outside of the hostel - pretty much everyone I’ve encountered seems to be from here and every time I think I’ve met another traveler (from anywhere), they start to talk and I realize I’m wrong. There was one guy I swore was German or Swedish at the airport (looked like he could have been my friend Krista's brother), who totally surprised me with his Portuguese... and it’s happened a few times since. I guess there is a lot of European history, influence and emigration here, but I still find it surprising.
One benefit of this fact that there is a lot of variation in how ethnic Brazilians look is that I've pretty much been able to blend in wherever I go. Most people seem surprised when they talk to me and I respond with a confused look and reply to their Portuguese in English (and then I get the same confused look back if/when they don't understand). Thankfully, though, I've been lucky to have met a lot of really friendly, really helpful people who do speak pretty good English. I asked the lady sitting next to me on the bus, for example, if she knew where the street my hostel is on was, and before I knew it, I had a little network of people on the bus figuring out exactly where my hostel was and coordinating where I should get off and where I should walk when I did.
Sweet Dreams
I couldn’t sleep on the plane (despite taking advantage of the wine.... watched a few episodes of Dextor, the Tudors and finally saw Up and Inglorious Basterds to pass the time) so I’m going to leave this now and take a nap for a bit. Feliz Natal (Merry Christmas) to all of you, though, and I am sure there will be much, much more to share very soon.
From Ipanema, B
